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Chamonix, France

Here we bring guests staying in one of our luxury ski chalets in Chamonix some tip-top information on where to find the very best mountain restaurants, the most scenic runs and the coolest cocktail bars. Read on for the definitively chic guide to skiing and chilling out in one of France's top resorts.

• THE RESORT
• THE RUNS
• OFF PISTE
• MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS
• APRÈS SKI
• DINING OUT
• NIGHT LIFE

The resort

Resort height: 1035m
Nearest airport: Geneva
Transfer time: 1 hour

Chamonix is deservedly a world class resort in one of the most spectacular settings there is. Mont Blanc and its surrounding peaks rise dramatically over the valley, which has skiing for all levels but particularly the gnarly off-piste skier and competent expert. There are four main areas, all of which are quite separate – a free bus links them, although you would normally commit to one area each day – and 90% of the skiing is above 2000m, making Chamonix extremely snow-sure.

The best is the north-facing Grands Montets area up at Argentière. This is a fantastic mountain offering endless skiing and off-piste terrain and it is where most of the die-hards head for. Gentler terrain can be found at Le Tour at the head of the valley, while the third area combines the south-facing Flégère and Brévent (they are linked laterally by cable car). Both are close to Chamonix itself and are on the other side of the valley from Mont Blanc and the famous Vallée Blanche, affording fantastic views of each.

Les Houches is another slightly separate ski area down the valley, closer to Geneva. Here you will find more benign, tree-lined skiing that suits beginners or intermediates and families.

Not to be missed is a day out through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Courmayeur in Italy. The mountain restaurants are exceptional, while the skiing is less hairy and more on-piste than in Chamonix. Great for families and mixed ability groups, offering something for everyone. ^

The runs
The runs in Chamonix are known for being under-graded, the reds being blacks in any other resort, the blues being reds. And although the resort is best known for its off-piste terrain, there are some fabulous pistes worth checking out that are still perfectly challenging for the solid intermediate.

At Grands Montets, Le Chamois is a hard, fast and long black, while there are the Point de Vue and Pylones ungroomed black itinerary runs at the very top of the mountain (you need to get the top lift up there – beware the steep steps down and book a ticket in advance, particularly at peak times). Bochard is a tough, long red too, while at the Balme area of Le Tour there is generally more easy red and blue run cruising on the gentler pastureland. Brévent and Flégère between them offer pistes for all abilities and more off-piste opportunities. The gorgeous, wide-open La Trappe green run at Flégère is the best beginner run in the valley that experts seem to relish as much as the less experienced. ^

Off-piste
Chamonix is off-piste central. Any fresh snowfall is greeted by keen-as-mustard expert skiers who start tracking it out within minutes of the lifts opening. Once again the Grands Montets is the best mountain in the valley for off-piste, offering numerous areas that are all reachable from the pistes. There are challenging and spectacular unpisted but avalanche controlled itinerary runs – like Point de Vue and Pylones off the top lift, and the Variante Hotel run accessed from the Herse lift. If you have the right experience and equipment, or with an instructor or qualified mountain guide, the opportunities are endless. There are classic runs from the top lift down onto the Argentière glacier too, or from the top of Bochard right into the giant playground of the Canadian Bowl (so-named after the nationality of the unfortunates who have perished there), or left into the huge Lavancher area on either side of the Chamois piste.

The back of Le Tour, on the Vallorcine side, also offers some great off-piste tree skiing and bowls when conditions are right, but beware: this area can be dangerously avalanche prone.

To make the most of the Chamonix, and for any off-piste skiing, we strongly recommend hiring a fully qualified mountain guide. See right for guides that have been highly praised and booked repeatedly by our guests. ^

Mountain restaurants
The Chamonix valley is not known for its excellent on-mountain cuisine. In fact, much of the catering is of the overpriced, self-service cold chips and spag bol variety. However, there are a few hidden gems. Best is probably the Chalet Refuge de Lognan on Grands Montets. This is the most genuinely 'mountain' mountain restaurant, run by a family in an old chalet with excellent homemade afternoon cakes as well as delicious, energy-boosting lunches. Up at Le Tour, there is the rather humble but charming Refuge du Col de Balme, run by a slightly grumpy old Swiss lady (the chalet is very close to the Swiss border) which serves homely mountain fare from a fabulous setting. La Cremerie, through the woods down a wiggling path off the Pierre à Ric home run on Grands Montets, is a tiny, charming wooden chalet that does great soups and cakes and vin chaud. Of the rather charmless self-service mountain catering establishments, the Plan Joran on Grands Montets is probably the best, housed in a giant wooden chalet-style building.

A top tip for foodies is to head over to Courmayeur and treat yourself to lunch there one day. The choice of restaurants is huge, and one of the best stops is Maison Vieille, otherwise known as Giacomo's, a wonderfully atmospheric pasta and pizza house run by the ebullient Giacomo himself. ^

AprÈs ski
Have a late afternoon drink up at Chalet Refuge on Grands Montets and watch the sun slowly setting before heading off down the challenging Variante Hotel run. Alternatively, check out the Savoy Bar on the main street in Argentière. It's always lively late afternoon and crammed with skiers still in ski boots enjoying a lively post-ski beer or two. Chambre Neuf opposite the railway station in Chamonix is a mustn't-miss après joint too, packed with a rather groovy crowd, and Rhododendron is the spot in Les Praz near Flégère for an après beer. ^

Dining out
For a special evening out, go to Albert 1er, the Michelin-starred eaterie in the Albert 1er Hotel just into Chamonix on the Argentière road. It is a fabulous experience. Its sister restaurant, Maison Carrier, does authentic local cuisine in a more rustic, farmhouse setting and is also very good. Le Bistrot, the restaurant attached to the 4-star Hotel Morgane on Avenue Aiguille du Midi, also has a Michelin star and is excellent for a smart night out.

Alternatively, La Cabane on the road between Argentière and Chamonix is a stylish, family-friendly venue in a fabulous location on the valley floor which does really good, authentic French dishes. The Hotel Eden, a little nearer Chamonix at Les Praz, is another good choice, with top food, starched linen and sparkling glassware, while lively après joint Chambre Neuf is a good spot for a cheaper evening meal. And if you are hankering after sushi, try Satsuki in Chamonix, which is run by lovely Japanese people. Restaurant l'Impossible in town is also a fantastic old restaurant, run by a delightful Italian couple and serving fabulous organic dishes.

In Argentière itself head for the Rusticana or 'Rusty' Bar just down from Le Dahu, which does really decent gastro pub-style food. La Remise, which opened in 2011, is another good dining spot. It is bright, airy, and contemporary, and serves top cuisine as well as knock-out desserts. Le Delice in Les Houches is great and has an eclectic menu influenced by Indian, Japanese, Moroccan and Thai dishes. ^

Night life
Argentière itself is pretty quiet for nightlife. Best to head down the valley to Cham for a bit of action. Cha Cha Cha is a good wine bar, while the very central La Terrasse and the lively Chambre Neuf near the train station also offer regular live music, and the MBC on the road to Argentière brews its own beer and is always a lively spot with local bands playing. For a more chic alternative, head to the bar at boutique hotel The Clubhouse in Chamonix for some of the finest cocktails, most excellent whiskies and rarest Armagnacs anywhere – as well as top people watching. Strictly speaking it is a members' bar, but you can usually get in for a one-off visit. Best to call ahead to be sure, but it is usually fine to just drop in. No Escape is probably the best, self-styled 'luxury' nightclub in Cham, where you can book a VIP table.

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quickfinder
• fab five
• 10 resort facts
• THE RESORT
• THE RUNS
• OFF PISTE
• MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS
• APRÈS SKI
• DINING OUT
• NIGHT LIFE
• cool tips
• Ski school and mountain guides
• How to get there
• children
• Non-skiers
• chamonix chalets
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• chamonix directory
• contact us

Photographs:
Chamonix Tourist Board
istockphoto

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