An independent guide to luxury ski chalets
From £12,000 exclusive chalet per week
Spacious, gracious, wittily-designed
view-fest for ten sybarites
usp
The Lodge is the impressive, hugely stylish flagship property of Zermatt specialists Mountain Exposure.
location
It occupies the whole top floor of a new-build chalet that has genuinely fantastic views of the iconic Matterhorn (which is also visible from the outdoor south-facing hot tub). It is close to the main street, too, and just a five minute walk (in ski boots) to the Sunnegga Express lift station.
style
Witty ‘modern Alpine’ in style. Ultra modern exterior, with rustic exposed beams and old wood floors indoors. There are stainless steel appliances, giant plate glass windows and dramatically suspended wood-burning fireplace in the huge living area with the dining area off it. Quirky finishings too, including cow skin-covered stools around the fire, unusual metal lamp shades and upside down walking canes used as coat hooks. ^
rooms
The rooms are gorgeous, all large, tucked away under the eaves (but with enough room for tall folk to stand) and hugely stylish. They are neutral in tone, with snowy white linen, bleached wooden beams and dark stone bathroom appliances. Toiletries are supplied by the spa specialists, Elemis. There are five double bedrooms, four of which can be configured as twins. Each has its own LCD flat screen cable TV and DVD player, plus open plan en-suite bathroom (yes, you need to be friends) with either modern bath tub or a massage shower with rainforest shower head. Loos, fortunately, are separate. The master bedroom, with its separate shower room, corner bath tub and toasty fire stove, is the most plush. ^
food & drink
Gourmet meals are served six nights, as well as the usual full English breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner. The Lodge uses lots of local produce, such as Zermatt’s famous local lamb and various cheeses and yoghurts that are made in the village. Down the valley in the Valais region there is a veritable market garden of fruit and veg too, all of which the chef uses. Even grapes are grown locally wherever possible (one of the world's highest vineyards produces a fine wine which is served in Mountain Exposure’s chalets), so the emphasis is very much on local stuff.
That said, The Lodge can access just about anything. Dinners were genuinely divine, belt-busting and pretty fancy, with choices for each course ranging from foie gras parfait with black truffle and fig preserve to salmon tartare, pumpernickel, smoked salmon and caviar for starters; followed by flash roasted lamb fillet with nutmeg mashed potatoes and sautéed girolles or roasted sea bass with lobster risotto and bisque butter sauce for mains. Even the teas and coffees afterwards came with chocolates, dammit.
As for the wines, once again the focus is refreshingly on local bottles. The cantons of Geneva, Vaud and Valais have many small and passionate winemakers and The Lodge has a specially chosen selection of the finest Swiss whites – Swiss whites are, in fact, award-winning and world class, but the world just doesn’t seem to know it yet. These include a Chardonnay AOC Lully 1er Cru Fut de Chêne 2006, which is not available through wine merchants, and a Heida 2007, the Heida grape being grown most locally to Zermatt, above the town of Visp. The reds include a Pinot Noir Promesse AOC 2007 from Sion in the Valais. ^
service
The staff were extremely friendly and attentive and the service outstanding and highly personalised, almost one step ahead of our every need. Restaurant and bar recommendations and bookings were readily come by, lift tickets provided on arrival, assistance with equipment hire provided, instructor/ski school arrangements made – and even a personal Mountain Exposure ski guide provided. The staff are clearly experts on Zermatt and passionate about the resort, eager and happy to provide advice on all the best things to do/see/ski/eat/drink. ^
spa facilities
The Lodge has its own sauna and hot tub on the balcony, complete with unbeatable views of the Matterhorn. A therapist can be arranged to lay on a whole menu of beauty treatments and massages, as an extra service. ^
children
The chalet can organise quality child care, from nannies to babysitters, as well as arranging high chairs and baby cots. There is no minimum age. The ski school in Zermatt also offers excellent programmes for children aged 6-12, as well as a special group for teenagers. For little ones aged 4-5, Zermatt also has Snowli Kids Village Riffelberg with fairy-tale figures, magic carpets, a merry-go-round and children’s lift. ^
extras
There is free wireless internet service throughout, plus the chalet offers the brilliant free Gourmet Ski Guide service, where an expert Mountain Exposure restaurant guide skis with guests all morning and takes them to the best mountain eateries for lunch, guaranteeing tables and arrival on time. ^
for skiers
The chalet has a team who will spend a day with you to help you explore the ski area. They also assist in ski rentals, advanced bookings of ski schools in Zermatt and can have your ski pass ready for you in advance, helping customers to avoid queues. The Mountain Exposure staff have an unrivalled knowledge of the area too – ask them just about anything and they’ll have the answer.
Summit Ski School and ISSI (Independent Ski and Snowboard Instructors) are the principal partners, but the Lodge uses a variety of instructors according to their guests’ needs. You really need to tell them when you book exactly what you need and they’ll find you the right school/instructor for you. Due to Zermatt’s popularity, it’s always best to book in advance – especially for group lessons, which typically begin Sunday or Monday, as it’s difficult to join these later in the week. ^
for non skiers
A number of wellness spas and access to swimming pools can be arranged for guests. The chalet also comes equipped with DVDs, as well as various books, and it will arrange for any kind of beauty or spa treatment for its clients, either at the salon or in the comfort of the chalet. ^
best thing
The views – and the suspended fireplace. ^
worst thing
The fact that The Lodge is located in a rather non-descript block, rather than a stand-alone chalet. Once inside it’s lovely, but outside it is pretty dull. ^
getting there
The nearest airport is Geneva, although this is a four hour train ride or 3hrs 30mins drive away. The Lodge can organise airport pick-ups by taxi, minibus or helicopter (all of which cost extra), but a lovely way to arrive in car-free Zermatt is by train, because the journey has such breath-taking views. From Geneva (where the train departs from right beside the airport), you’ll need to change trains once, but the quickest route is often to change twice (journey times vary from 3hr 38min to 4hr 07min.
bottom line
The Lodge sleeps up to 12 and is generally only bookable outright, although on occasion it is available by the room. It costs from £1370pp per week. ^
bookings & enquiries
If you would like to make an enquiry or a booking, please email enquiries at chicchaletguide.co.uk. Remember, we have visited all the chalets we feature so can give you totally unbiased, independent advice on all of them. The prices we quote are also the list prices quoted by the chalets themselves, so there is no advantage in going to the chalets direct.
Chalet - 8
Service - 8
Room - 7
Food & Drink - 9
Luxury - 8
Make sure you sample some of the superb local wines. Swiss wines are seriously underrated and many are not available in the UK, so tuck in. There is a particularly good Bordeaux too -- don’t miss the 2002 Landes Pommerol, a truly great red. Also, book the master bedroom if possible – it opens onto the outdoor hot tub.
Quickfinder
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Bookings and enquiries: enquiries at chicchaletguide.co.uk Telephone:
+44 (0)7772 853996
guestbook
"If it's not too unseemly, I'd like to gush a little. It was sensational in every way - the taste of the food and wine, the sight of the Matterhorn, the smell of a wood-burning stove. My previous best ever Saturday lunch took place about three years ago and involved Michelin stars, so congratulations for knocking that off its perch. Fabulous. Here endeth the gush."
Richard Cree, London
"What an elegant and cosy chalet. All of us, kids and adults, felt at home, yet very spoiled too. The service from the whole Mountain Exposure team was always one step ahead of our wishes. Keep up the good work and see you soon!"
Klaus
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